Where is it?

A good 20-minute hike from Highbury and Islington or The Angel tube stations, but about five minutes from the Overground at Essex Road.

What’s all the fuss about?

Chef James Cochran had to sadly close his highly rated North London restaurant 12.51 back in 2024, and this is his latest venture. He has an excellent pedigree which kicked off at Wheeler’s Oyster Bar, in his home town of Whistable, before he cooked in London at top restaurants including The Ledbury.

What’s the place like?

Like a pub on the outside, and more like a bistro within. Chalky pastels and wood dominate the dining area with an ecelectic range of prints and photography on the walls.

What did you eat and drink?

We kicked off with a couple of the canapés and small plates. The prawn toast was a particular highlight, crunchy and golden on the outside, and fluffy and delicate within. The homemade soda bread with the umami rich XO butter was delicious too. We both decided to order the Brixham hake – a nicely cooked fillet – which came in a pool of smoked haddock chowder and slivers of roast artichoke. Yum. However the hash brown chips, knocked that out of the park – dangerously addictive, and like the best ‘brown food’ fatty, crunchy, carby and melting in the middle.

We chose two desserts – a rather spectacular rhubarb and lemon baked Alaska, and a decent wedge of treacle tart.

Your verdict?

This will quickly become a date-night destination for North Londoners, as well as a good hang-out for birthday celebrations with family and friends. It’s a bit off the beaten track unless you live locally, but definitely worth the walk if you’ve been shopping in the Islington boutiques.