A stay at an acclaimed restaurant in the Scottish village of Ullapool gives a bona fide taste of the Highlands

t’s tricky, when we arrive at The Dipping Lugger, not to act like kids in a sweet shop. Because in this beautiful 18th-century former manse, now a highly acclaimed restaurant with rooms, there is a sweet shop for overnight guests. And by ‘shop’, I mean we are invited to help ourselves to the sparkling goodies in glass jars – including pretty much the full range of Tunnock’s. This is Scotland after all. Ullapool, to be precise – a picture-perfect fishing village perched on the shores of Loch Broom in the Northwest Highlands. The setting is stunning, with heather-swathed hills and jagged mountain peaks rising around the sparkling loch.

If you’re touring the Highlands, Ullapool is a must-see – but for us, it’s a stay at The Dipping Lugger (named after a type of sailing vessel) that makes our visit truly special. There are just three rooms, and ours is so inviting it’s tempting to snuggle up and watch the ever- changing skies over the loch. Fluffy robes, a free-standing roll-top bath and a super king size bed, with cloud-like duvet, tick all the luxury boxes. But quirky inclusions, like a vintage-style Roberts radio, and an enamel oil can filled with blowsy fresh flowers, offer a unique touch. The place has its own quirky personality and every detail has been carefully thought out.

Downstairs, the cosy dining room is all sumptuous wallpapers, glowing dark wood and framed posters from Highland music gigs. In the lounge we discover a record player and small selection of vinyl for guests’ perusal, which delights my music-loving husband, Jimmy, and hints at proprietors Robert Hicks and Helen Chalmers’ involvement in promoting music events across Scotland over the years.

Dinner here is just as beautifully presented. The tasting menu begins with ‘snacks’ – intensely cheesy, biscuity morsels – and a deeply flavoursome whirl of chicken liver parfait. There’s a plump, sweet scallop with a tempura oyster, and freshly baked, still-warm brioche glazed in Scottish honey and flecked with tiny flowers. It’s insanely good, and well worth getting sticky fingers for. There’s silky celeriac gnocchi and a tiny crab tart, the pastry made from beremeal – a grain associated with far northern climes. It’s heaven in a bite. There is meltingly tender lamb, and a dainty Ecclefechan tart – a rich and gooey sweet treat paired with whisky ice cream. When I mention how good it is, Robert laughs and admits: ‘You can’t go wrong with a dash of Glenmorangie.’ Service is friendly and relaxed, the dining room filled with chatter and delicious aromas from the kitchen, hinting at what might be coming next.

Breakfast, too, is taster menu style – in mini form – including toasty granola with rhubarb from the kitchen garden, plus tender smoked halibut and the most flavoursome bacon we’ve ever tasted. It sets us up to explore this gem of a village, with its charming shops, including West Coast Deli, where we’re invited to sample the fine selection of Scottish cheeses. To walk it all off, we head out into the glorious surrounding countryside and follow woodland trails around the spectacular Corrieshalloch Gorge. It literally means ‘ugly hollow’ – a misnomer if ever there was one. Later, as we head home with some reluctance, we figure that recreating a sumptuous tasting menu is somewhat beyond our reach. But being inspired by The Dipping Lugger’s sweet shop, tucked away in an alcove upstairs? Now there’s an idea we might steal.